From the sunny yellow heads of dandelions to the aggressive spread of crabgrass, weeds can be a source of frustration. However, these unwelcome plants are more than just an eyesore. They are indicators, telling a story about your lawn’s underlying conditions.
Howdy, unwanted neighbors
While many weeds can appear, a few are notorious throughout Omaha-area lawns.
- Dandelions: These bright yellow flowers are a sign of compacted soil. Their long, powerful taproot can plunge 10 inches or more into the ground, making hand-pulling ineffective unless you remove the entire root. Fun fact: Every part of a dandelion is edible, and they were actually brought to America intentionally by European settlers as a food crop and medicine.
- Crabgrass: The quintessential summer annual, crabgrass thrives in heat and sunlight. Its seeds germinate when soil temperatures consistently reach 55-60°F, which in Omaha is typically mid-to-late April. A single plant can produce up to 150,000 seeds. Ironically, crabgrass is actually more nutritious than most lawn grasses and is considered a valid food source in many parts of the world.
- Clover: Often appearing in lawns that are low in nitrogen, white clover is a legume that can produce its own nitrogen. While some homeowners welcome it for its drought tolerance, it disrupts the uniformity of a traditional turf lawn. Before the 1950s, clover was actually included in premium grass seed mixes and considered a sign of a quality lawn.
- Creeping Charlie (ground ivy): This highly invasive member of the mint family thrives in shady, moist areas. It spreads aggressively via both seeds and creeping stems (stolons), making it one of the most difficult weeds to eradicate. Medieval brewers used ground ivy to flavor and clarify beer before hops became the standard.
- Plantain: Both broadleaf and buckhorn plantain love compacted, high-traffic areas. These perennial weeds produce distinctive ribbed leaves and can survive repeated mowing by growing in flat rosettes that duck under mower blades. Native Americans called plantain “white man’s footprint” because it seemed to appear wherever European settlers had walked.
- Purslane: This succulent summer annual thrives in our hot, dry summers and poor soil conditions. Its thick, paddle-shaped leaves store water, making it surprisingly drought-tolerant and difficult to eliminate once established. This is often a tagalong from bagged soils or dirt from newly installed plants. Despite being a lawn nuisance, purslane contains more omega-3 fatty acids than most fish.
- Foxtail: These summer annual grasses produce distinctive fuzzy seed heads that resemble a fox’s tail. They germinate later than crabgrass (typically May in our area) and thrive in disturbed or thin turf areas. The name “foxtail” comes from the seed head’s appearance, but the seeds are actually designed like tiny harpoons that can work their way into pet fur and skin.
- Henbit: A winter annual that emerges in fall and flowers in early spring with small purple blooms. It loves our clay soil and often appears in large patches during mild winter spells, taking advantage of dormant turf. The square stems reveal its membership in the mint family, and like its cousin ground ivy, it’s completely edible with a mild minty flavor.
Why they thrive in Nebraska and Iowa
Weeds are opportunists. They exploit weaknesses in your lawn. Our dense clay soil, which holds moisture, is an ideal environment for weeds like nutsedge and creeping Charlie. The freeze-thaw cycles create bare patches that are perfect landing spots for wind-blown weed seeds. In essence, a weed is simply a plant that is better adapted to the current (and imperfect) conditions of your lawn than your grass is.
Right time, right treatment
Strategic timing is paramount for effective weed control.
- For crabgrass: apply a pre-emergent herbicide in early spring (around the time the forsythia bushes bloom) to prevent seeds from sprouting.
- For broadleaf weeds (dandelions, clover, etc.): the fall is the most effective time for control. As these plants transport energy down to their roots for winter storage, they will carry the herbicide with them, resulting in a more complete kill.
- The best defense: Remember, the most effective weed control is a thick, healthy lawn. When turf is dense and thriving, there is simply no room for weeds to establish a foothold. Mowing high (3+ inches), fertilizing in the fall, and watering deeply will do more to prevent weeds than any chemical application.
DIY vs. calling in the pros
Spot-treating a few dandelions or hand-pulling some crabgrass along a driveway is a manageable DIY task. However, consider professional help when:
- Weeds cover more than 10% of your lawn.
- You’re battling persistent, aggressive weeds like creeping Charlie or wild violet.
- Your own attempts at control have been unsuccessful.
- You want a comprehensive, preventative strategy that includes pre-emergent and properly timed applications.
Understanding the “why” behind your weeds is the first step toward achieving a healthier, more attractive lawn that your family can enjoy.
