Fall is your last chance to set trees up for winter. These five steps prevent the most common problems.
1) Deep water before ground freeze
Think of late-fall watering as insurance against winter desiccation, especially for evergreens and new plantings. In November, soak the root zone before soils freeze. Frozen ground effectively creates drought conditions, and this final watering provides a moisture reserve the tree can access before the deep freeze sets in.
About 1 to 2 inches of water applied slowly across the drip line can be a major help. On clay, use a soaker hose or move a sprinkler to prevent runoff.
Newly planted trees, evergreens, and trees in open, windy spots benefit the most from this.
2) Mulch correctly
Lay down 2 to 4 inches of wood mulch over the root zone, but keep a mulch-free donut around the trunk. None of those mulch volcanoes.
Shredded hardwood and local wood chips are good choices here. Skip fine materials that mat.
3) Remove dangerous deadwood
Dead branches become projectiles in wind and ice. Clear dead wood above walkways, driveways, and buildings.
If something requires a ladder or is thicker than your wrist, we recommend hiring a pro.
4) Wrap young or thin-barked trees
Maple, cherry, and linden can crack on the south and southwest sides in winter sun. Depending on the tree’s exposure, you may want to install tree wrap or white guards in late November. Remove wraps in spring so they do not girdle.
5) Inspect and secure
Check stakes and ties. They should allow some movement but keep the root ball stable. Remove stakes after one growing season except in very windy sites.
While leaves are still on, scan for pests, cankers, and structural issues so you can plan winter work.
